Category Archives: techniques

Sauteed Broccoli Rabe and Potatoes

Posted on January 26, 2012 by | 4 Comments

Have you noticed by now that people are trying to convince you to do just about everything with bacon?  Sometimes it’s simple (candied bacon), sometimes it could occasion a little eyebrow raising (though you can’t write it off if it’s David Lebovitz‘s bacon ice cream), and sometimes it’s just not going to ever happen in my kitchen (bacon vodka).  But it does make for amusing reading, if nothing else–click here and here if you want to see just how outlandish it can get.

(And yes, I can’t deny it, we are all susceptible: I did after all make bacon spice cookies a while back.  It’s no fun to be Serious Cuisine all the time is it?)

So–even with everyone jumping on this bacon bandwagon, using lard or bacon fat is still a bit out there.  (When did you last eat an apple pie made with lard?)  But even though it’s head-spinning to try to keep up with these things, it looks as if these animal fats aren’t quite so bad, or at least not in comparison with their trans-fat laden substitutes. (My crude understanding of this being to stay away from vegetable fats that are solid at room temperature).

Broccoli Rabe Potatoes in Bacon Fat (2 of 2)

I don’t know if I was inspired by healthier living (nor can I really say that with a straight face, we’re talking pork fat here), an attempt at kitchen frugality, or just this bacon craze, but I’ve recently been saving the (massive amounts of) drippings that render from our CSA bacon.  As this bacon is from heritage breed  pigs, it is by no stretch of the imagination lean.  But it’s amazingly good.  So good, that why would I not want to draw out the flavors of a Sunday breakfast through the week, especially if I can convince myself I’m being virtuous by, well, um, using bacon drippings?

I’ve made broccoli rabe pan-fried with potatoes many times since I first read about it on Leite’s Culinaria.  The slightly bitter but fresh tasting rabe with crisped soft potatoes is a perfectly rib-sticking winter food.   The original recipe is from Julia della Croce’s Italian Home Cooking and thus calls for olive oil.  I’ve found that it’s equally wonderful with bacon fat–all those meaty aromas melding into your potatoes and flavoring your greens.  Either way, it’s just right for mid-January.  And I guess it means I’m trendy.

Broccoli Rabe Potatoes in Bacon Fat (1 of 2)

Sautéed Broccoli Rabe and Potatoes, inspired by and adapted from Julia Della Croce’s recipe available here or here

Note:  The original recipe uses olive oil, so if you don’t like, don’t have, or just don’t eat pork, fear not as I can assure it’s equally wonderful either way.

  • 2 Yukon Gold or similar potatoes, unpeeled
  • 1 bunch broccoli rabe
  • salt
  • 4-6 tablespoons bacon fat or extra-virgin olive oil
  • 6 large garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

Put the potatoes in a deep bot and cover with cold water to cover by an inch.  Bring to a boil, and then reduce heat to gently boil for about 20 minutes until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a knife (total time will depend upon the size of the potato).  Lift the potatoes out of the water (don’t drain the water but rather leave it in the pot as you will be using it momentarily).  Allow the potatoes to cool.

Trim the rabe:  cut the hard ends off and (ideally) peel the stalks with a vegetable peeler.  Cut off the florets and then chop the stems into 3-inch chunks.  Return the potato water to a boil, adding the salt and extra water if needed.  Then add the stalks, boil for 2-3 minutes, then add the florets, and cook 2-3 minutes more, until  stalks are tender but not mushy.  Note this blanching process doesn’t just cook the rabe but also draws out bitterness.

Peel the skin off the potatoes–it will come off easily using your fingertips alone and cut each potato into 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick pieces.

In a large skillet, heat the fat or oil over medium heat.  Add the garlic and saute gently until soft, just a few minutes, and remove the garlic to a bowl.

Raise the heat to medium-high.  When it is hot, (and only when it is hot; this helps prevent sticking and promotes crispiness) add the potatoes, and sauté until they are golden and crisp all over, about 10 minutes.   Add the rabe and garlic cloves, and continue to saute until the greens are well-coated with the fat or oil and are heated through.

Adjust for seasoning and serve.

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New Water Filter! (Mavea Review)

Posted on December 23, 2011 by | 7 Comments

Considering Portland recently was in the nation’s attention for its water reservoir being tainted by a childish prank, it’s no surprise I’m inclined to reach for the filtered water.  Yes, some stupidhead thought it would be funny to relieve himself in the Mt. Tabor water reservoir  – but per this story he thought it was sewage treatment plant – “no disrespect!”  The authorities tried to assure the fair citizens of the Rose City that the amount of contamination was inconsequential given the reservoir’s size, but the “yuck” factor won out.  The city drained the reservoir and for the most part I filter my water.

I actually don’t think it’s that necessary for me to always reach for the filter these days, though it has been in the past.  I spent a year drinking water that smelled like rotten eggs – thanks to the sulfur enriched wells in eastern Montana.  In my Seattle apartment — the hobbit-size attic of a 1920s Craftsman, the water had a bizarre red tint that always captured itself in the filter – fortunately.  Now, I think I just prefer my water cold, and I like the idea of cleaning it just a little bit more (see above and the “yuck” factor).

Traditionally I have always used the Brita – the classic design.  My primary complaint has only been the lid is ridiculous to pop back on after cleaning and replacing the filter.  The water has always been up to my less-than-exacting standards.  I’m also less inclined to replace the filter because I’m supposed to let it soak for an hour – or something like that.  After 10 years, I know it still seems to annoy me even though it shouldn’t.

A few weeks a ago, the Mavea water filter company asked us if we wanted to try out their new water system.  Their marketing campaign appeals to the yoga enthusiasts and “I want to be SO healthy” health nuts, closeted or not.  Water is one of the best things for you – we’re told.  So, why not make drinking water better?

As for the product, I must say it is aesthetically prettier than the Brita, but my poor Brita has been around for over 6 years, which probably says a lot in itself.  I do like Mavea’s 2 tone design and I really like the pour lid.

There’s no cumbersome plastic flap to flip and hold up.  Instead, it has this gravity, trapdoor device that drops open with the weight of water.  Indeed, a step up!  Of course there’s the actual lid which is my problem with Brita.  Fixed!  It pops right on without any frustration.


Also, you don’t have to let the cartridge soak. Just rinse!

But the taste?  I’m going to say it – not really that different.  I did a “blind” taste test — tap water, Brita, and Mavea.  While the tap water was set a 3rd place immediately, silver and gold appeared to be a toss up.  It seemed to depend upon the glass!  The tester liked the Brita first, in one lighter glass taster.  Then I switched them, and the lighter glass with the Mavea also won out.

So, it’s anyone’s guess.  Maybe it’s all about the glassware….

Disclosure: Mavea gave me this new water pitcher you see above.  No money has changed hands and while I believe in praise, only where it is due.

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Pasta with Broccoli and Anchovy Sauce

Posted on December 8, 2011 by | 18 Comments

I won’t lie:  often enough when I see a recipe that kicks off by underlining the importance of technique, I proceed warily:  isn’t that just code for “this is going to be a lot of work”?

I don’t mind putting in some time in the kitchen (for goodness sakes, I’m writing a food blog here).  I do weird things like making my own yogurt and nurturing a little jar of sourdough in the fridge (though I’ll admit that neither of those activities require a Herculean effort, or much effort at all).  And I can’t argue that it’s not worth it.  But a soft-focus daydreamy vision of myself, in slow motion, pulling a steamy lasagna out of the oven–with homemade sheets of pasta of course–made with locally foraged mushrooms and herbs will have to wait for the weekend. (Well, the foraging–frankly that’s not going to happen any weekend because hunting down wild mushrooms freaks me out.  And furthermore I am a disaster at homemade pasta).  The other five days of the week have to submit to the practicalities of the fact that I can’t start making dinner until about 6pm.

On top of this, it’s often a challenge to build a meal with a vegetable as a starring role–at least for me.  I often feeling like I’m eating a compilation of side dishes with no unifying center.  Some garlicky greens, a swipe of a cracker through a jar of hummus, a carrot, a few olives, too many slices of bread and cheese, some scrounging for a cookie, a handful of my kids’ cereal…

Broccoli Pasta with Anchovy Sauce (3 of 3)

This recipe that I’m going to tell you about, from  Marcella Hazan‘s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, is one I’ve actually ignored for some time.  It just sounded, well, boring.  Chopped boiled broccoli stirred together with pasta and some cheese on top?  But for some reason (I had broccoli, I had pasta, this recipe sounded easy and fast–and on a Friday evening, that was enough) I finally gave it a try.  Except for the broccoli of course, all the ingredients are either pantry items or the refrigerator equivalent, so I hardly had to think too much before starting.

Broccoli Pasta with Anchovy Sauce (1 of 3)

Of course, using umami-packed anchovies and good cheese goes a long way towards ensuring a simple dish has tons of satisfying flavor. But (bringing me full circle in this post), the real revelation here was the technique and Hazan’s detailed instructions on–yes–how to boil broccoli.

I’m well aware it may sound silly to go on and on about “how” to boil something, but it really does makes all the difference:  the stems are tender, with no unwelcome rawness at the core, while the florets, which often suffer the reverse fate, are firm and green.  Peeling is quick and easy and ensures there’s no unpleasant, tough skin on the stalks.  Giving the stems a 2 minute lead in the boiling process ensures each piece is perfectly cooked, and the salted water keeps them freshly green and verdant.  And I had independent confirmation:  my husband, not knowing the secret tricks I had employed, commented on how good the broccoli was.  (I’ll forgive him the shock and surprise in his voice.  I had the same reaction).

I wish there were more kitchen tricks that produced such a winning effect for such minimal effort.  Sadly, there’s not as many as any of us would like, but rest assured I’m keeping my eyes peeled.  In the meantime, grab some broccoli, and enjoy a weeknight dinner in short order!

Broccoli Pasta with Anchovy Sauce (2 of 3)

Pasta with Broccoli and Anchovy Sauce adapted from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking

  • One bunch of broccoli (about 1 1/2 lbs)
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 6 anchovy fillets
  • 2 hot dried chili peppers or chili flakes, to taste
  • 12 ounces pasta, such as orecchiette, fusille, concilige (3/4 a standard box)
  • 2T parmesan cheese (grated)
  • 1/4c pecorino romano cheese (grated; i.e. twice the amount of parmesan)

Bring salted water to the boil.  Meanwhile, remove the broccoli stems from the florets.  Peel the broccoli stems using a vegetable peeler or a paring knife.  When the water boils, add the stems only, and once the water returns to a boil, wait 2 minutes.  Add the florets, return to the boil, wait one minute, and remove the broccoli.  (You can reserve the water for making the pasta).  When cool enough to handle, cut the broccoli stalks into 1/2 inch dice and break up the florets even more.

Return the water to  a boil.  Chop the anchovies finely; they will start to almost form a paste as you do so.  Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the anchovies, and move the saucepan over the pot of boiling water (so as to improvise a double-boiler).  Stir the anchovies for a minute or two until they disintegrate.  (Note, that this setup is not an extra step as you must boil water anyway for the pasta.  I have cooked the anchovies over the lowest possible flame but this is a safer method and at least here there’s no reason not to:  you already have the setup ready to go).

Add the broccoli (florets and stalks) and the chili, and return to the burner over medium heat.  Cook 4-5 minutes, stirring frequently.  Invert into a large bowl.

Boil the pasta until al dente, following the suggested timing on your package.  Add to the broccoli mixture.

Stir the broccoli sauce together with the pasta, add the cheese, stir and serve.

Final note:  there’s still time to enter our three year blogiversary giveaway, click on over!

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Modern Baker Challenge: Swiss Walnut Crescents

Posted on October 7, 2011 by | 12 Comments

Every so often I realize there’s a blog post that I’ve drafted, and maybe even redrafted, and then forgotten about. And then suddenly I realize that this was eight months ago. (Or longer. I have a post on a cranberry tart from last November that it went stale–I could hardly publish it in April–though I suppose that’s less of a problem).

I’m not that delayed on everything. Though I made these Swiss Walnut Crescents from the Modern Baker puff pastry chapter back in February, we are only now officially posting for this chapter in the Modern Baker Challenge. So, I’m on time after all.

And even though I made these a while back, I remember them well (and not just because they were delicious!) Making the filling was unusual–the first step is to soak and rehydrate bread crumbs in milk. Only then do you add the chopped walnuts, sugar, and other flavorings. Who would have thought that dried bread crumbs form the base for a rich filling?


As with most of the puff pastry recipes, once you have your puff pastry dough made, the rest is smooth sailing. Compared to pie dough, puff seems to roll out almost effortlessly and doesn’t need to be treated so gingerly. Making the little crescent-shaped rolls is one of those things that looks tricky and finicky but actually effortless. Fold the top two corners of your triangle towards the center to encase the filling, then roll up your packet towards the third point of your triangle. Make sure this tip is tucked under your final roll, flush against the cookie sheet, so your pretty crescents don’t unravel during baking.

Chill the rolls in the refrigerator for an hour (though less delicate than pie dough, puff pastry is subject to the same rules: cold cold cold), paint with egg wash, and bake.

Golden brown on the outside…

And on the inside: just look at these flaky layers!

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Coconut Cake — Partial Fail

Posted on August 17, 2011 by | 14 Comments

I have overheard Marie, on many occasions, ooh and aah over her share of coconut recipes (from cake to cookies to cocktails!) Not being a fan of coconut, I always thought it was funny she could be so excited by all these ideas.  But then Marie and I made the Barefoot Contessa’s signature coconut cupcakes 2 years ago for little E’s birthday.  The cupcakes are amazing, and I sadly acknowledge that this fact probably relates to the obscene amounts of butter that are called for.  My brother-in-law made some pretty terrifying calculations about the amount of butter in each serving, but I’ve fortunately managed to bury that knowledge deep deep into the recesses of my mind.   I hope. 

Anyway.  Another calorific cookbook of mine, the Joanne Chang’s Flour Cookbook, (which, by the way, was the source of the birthday cupcakes for little E’s this year as you may recall),  features a coconut cake recipe using, rather than plain old dairy milk, coconut milk in both the frosting and cake.  Pretty cool.  Perfect for Marie’s visit, right?  And who cares if her birthday was already a few weeks past–there’s always an excuse for cake!

The actual cake might have been perfect too, had I been just a bit more knowledgable about coconut milk.  My historic lack of interest in all things coconut means that I was not aware that the milk is thick and dense, like condensed milk.  When I belatedly noticed that the package of “coconut milk” I bought had in smaller font “beverage” I worried a little, but plowed ahead nonetheless.  And by belatedly, I noticed as I was opening the package to pour into the recipe.  I was in too deep to stop! 

If you are a bit more knowledgable than I about coconut milk, you are at best raising your eyebrows, and at worst, cringing.  I should have known better.  I did actually know that coconut milk is “fatty”; while this looked like skim milk–and as it’s basically just watered down coconut milk, that’s not too far off.  I know that “apple juice drink” is not apple juice, why would “coconut milk beverage” be what I was looking for?   

Um, at least it's organic?

It was a bit of a mixed bag.

The cake did not rise all that much, but otherwise, actually turned out well enough.   As I had used a 9″ cake pan rather than the specified 8″ pan, I took that as the explanation for a lackluster loft, and moved on.  The cake may have looked a bit sad, but things smelled good.  Time to make frosting!

Sad little short coconut cake

And things went south.  The method is similar to the crispy magic icing recipe, where you start out heating a slurry of egg whites and sugar over a double boiler, then transfer to a stand mixer to beat until fluffy and cool, then adding the butter.  (Cool is important so you don’t melt the butter!)

Oh, if I only had stopped there.  Because it was already a perfect buttercream. 

But then I went and dumped in that coconut milk beverage.  And things were soupy.  So I kept beating–soupy frosting was already unusable, so there was nothing to lose.  But it turned into the following mess, which Marie was kind enough to observe that while tasty, looked like “half and half that’s gone bad.”  Down the sink it went.

Not exactly what you'd want to see on a cake

After that I tried seven-minute frosting, which, in our case, took way more than seven minutes, probably because we used pasteurized egg whites.  This frosting also resulted in something a bit more on the liquid side than I’d like:  I followed Mark Bittman’s recipe to take it to the soft peak stage before removing from heat; next time I’ll follow Epicurious’s recipe and take it to stiff peaks first.  Still it worked:  lovely, fluffy, like liquid marshmallow!

The cake experience was a bit marred in the end by the one-hour sojourn into frosting mishaps, with sacrificed butter, impatient preschoolers waiting for cake, and an almost-toddler who fussed vociferously when not allowed to operate the hand mixer.  But in the end, we had a coconut cake, with frosting, and several lessons learned.  And that’s not a bad result.

And finally, voila!

 And finally, children, to summarize the five lessons we’ve learned today:

1.  Coconut milk and coconut milk beverage are not the same thing.  You may be able to substitute one for the other in baking, but not in frosting.

2.  If you use too large a pan, your cake will probably not rise as high, and will bake much faster.

3  Flour recipes must be pretty good if the cake can still turn out despite my gaffes. And I certainly don’t blame Joanne Chang (the author of Flour) for not writing a frosting recipe that withstands the use of coconut milk “beverage.”

4.  Pasteurized egg whites are great to use if you are an anxious mom, but they do take much longer to beat into meringue.

5.  When making seven-minute icing, take to the stiff peak stage before removing from heat.

6.   Don’t trust a one-year-old with a fork near a cake.

More? I don't mind if I do!

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Perfect Pie Crust by Hand

Posted on July 22, 2011 by | 25 Comments

Making pie is so nervewracking!

Considering how many people practically recoil in fear at the idea of making pie dough, it’s a wonder how the phrase “as easy as pie”–became such a cliché.  We all know what the perfect crust should be.  Shatteringly flaky, buttery, gently browned and crisp, setting off whatever delicious filling it is cradling.  We all fear what our efforts will result in:  a crust that is limp, soggy, greasy, undercooked or burnt (and if we’re really lucky we’ll manage part charred, part raw!)

I’ve actually gotten fairly comfortable making pie dough, but though I don’t have The Fear, my dough has rarely wowed me.  It’s been fine, I think, and what’s more, I’ve always managed to roll out the dough without too many tears (that’s tears, in dough, and tears, from your eyes).  But…  

I’ve been making my dough in the food processor, which is an unintimidating, almost foolproof method.  (Almost, because I have on occasion not used truly ice-cold water and ended up with dough sludge on the bottom of the mixing unit).  You pulse the flour/sugar/salt mixture together with the butter until you get something resembling cornmeal, then you trickle in ice-cold water until the mixture forms a ball.  Chill, roll, bake, eat.  Simple enough.

I recently found Deb’s (you know, that Deb at Smitten Kitchen) series of posts on pie crust, and was convinced to attempt my next pie crust the old-fashioned way:  no food processor, but just a pastry cutter, spatula, and bowl.  (Deb rightly points out that if you think this sounds like a lot more work, consider the fact that you don’t have to wash your food processor.  As someone who finds soaping up all those pieces incredibly annoying, I must admit that this alone was probably enough to convince me to try her method).

But Deb also points out that making dough by hand also results in a flakier crust.  Yes, of course it does–isn’t that always the way with making things by hand?  I’m might be rolling my eyes a little as I say this, but am also nodding along penitently.  I should have known better as I even took a baking class two years ago where we made crust by hand, and it’s that amazing pie crust that I’ve never been able to replicate. Duh. 

The reason “by hand” is better is as follows:  when you’ve managed to break down your butter to the ideal texture, you don’t want to break it down any more when you add the water.  It’s the fineness of the butter that “makes or breaks” you on flakiness and tenderness.  If you add water in the food processor, those whirring blades continue to chop the butter more and more finely.  If you stir in the cold water with a rubber spatula or spoon, this doesn’t happen.  And a few irregularly streaky pieces only enhance the final product.

I’m not going to try to compete with the Smitten Kitchen tutorial, which I’ll link again to here.  (Bonus pie tips from Kate McDermott at the Kitchn here).  But let me tell you, I am sold.  You had guessed as much already, hadn’t you?  The method is easy, the dough was a delight to roll out, and the final crust was perfectly flaky.  And no annoying food processor parts.

I’ve humbly included a few of my process photos (note how you can actually see the streaks of butter; it’s a good thing!), followed by a few (very important) tips of my own.

–Use a big heavy bowl that you aren’t afraid to bang away at with your pastry cutter.  You’ll want to work fast, and you can’t work fast if you’re working gingerly.

–I usually mix over the divider in my sink (there’s a little platform at the corner where my bowl fits perfectly) so at least some of the inevitable clouds of flour settle in the basin.  I like to think it speeds cleanup.  Again, you need to mix quickly and you can’t do this if you are worried about making a mess.  (Not that it makes that much of a mess anyway, but half of my reticence in the kitchen is psychological). 

–It’s been said a million times before, but cold cold cold.  For insurance I throw the butter in the freezer when I’m getting ready.  I don’t use it completely frozen, but I figure taking the temperature down a few degrees can only help.  Similarly, I have made the mistake of thinking the cold water out of the fridge water dispenser is “ice cold.”  It’s not.  Switch to the ice dispenser option, then add cold water.  Then put it in the fridge for 10 minutes.  Now you may proceed.

There’s still several months of fruit left just begging to be made into delicious pies.  And if you really think it’s still too hard to make a good pie crust, let me show you one last photo:  it really is “as easy as pie.”  (OK, OK, my 3 year old did not roll out the pie dough.  But he helped, or thought he was helping.  And he’s a way cuter model than me).

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